100cc of pure fun up to Shanlinxi, and back.

If you know Taiwan the slightest bit, you are probably aware of the omnipresence of scooters on this island. They are everywhere — scaringly so, some will say. Not only does everybody own one but Taiwan is also a major producer of these two-wheeled contraptions, and good ones too! And, if you know the author of these lines a bit, you will know that I’ve been an adopter of this component of the Taiwanese lifestyle well before I became a resident of this island. Funny enough, since arriving here, I am without a scooter, and it hurts! With the beautiful weather we’ve been having in the central part of Taiwan this year, and the blooming cherry trees (and other flowering shrubs and trees) everywhere the symptoms of the Spring cravings are well in place.

This week, with everyone on the island on vacation for the Lunar New Year holiday, getting around by car has become impossible. The main highways have become island long parkings and all sightseeing spots are invaded by local folks enjoying family outings and picture-taking sessions. Since our town is not far from a popular off ramp giving access to some of the most popular scenic areas on the island, we are literally locked-in from being able to go anywhere as floods of cars and buses inch their way towards their destinations. So, for that reason, nobody at the Taiwan Tea Craft compound wishes to go anywhere at this time of the year preferring to let others come and visit us. Now, remember, I have a serious case of the two-wheel Spring jitters. And yes, as mentioned earlier, all good Taiwanese household has a few of these kicking around. Of course, one is sitting here most of the time. And yes, the ONLY way to get around in those circumstances is by scooter or bicycle (now you have a good clue as to why there are so many here…). So, earlier this week, I couldn’t bear it any longer and asked if I could borrow the little red 100cc Yamaha Cuxi to go out for a stroll. The afternoon was well underway and everybody thought I would simply explore the surroundings with my camera for an hour or so. I did not contradict anyone, but secretly I was contemplating other horizons.

What a pleasure it was! So much so, that Lugu was not enough, I had to push further up over the coastal ridge for another 30 km to one of my favorite little paradises: Shanlinxi.

My intention was to head up to Lugu Township, the home of world-famous Dong Ding oolong tea. After-all it’s only a few 25 to 3o kilometres away and I could easily be content with it’s beautiful 600 to 1000 m tea gardens and blooming cherry trees and be back before sunset (which is around 18:00 here). So, off I went as the clock was nearing the 2 o’clock mark. What a pleasure it was! So much so, that Lugu was not enough, I had to push further up over the coastal ridge for another 30 km to one of my favorite little paradises (yes, plural form here… as there are many terrestrial ones on this island): Shanlinxi — one of mythical high mountain tea terroirs of Taiwan. The scooter was, of course, an excuse — but a pleasant one nonetheless, being above the clouds amongst the vertiginous tea gardens to admire the last rays of light in tea paradise was my true craving. Respectfully, I will stop writing here and let the following few pictures try to convey the beauty and scope of it. For the best effect, you may want to consider sipping a cup of the following tea to get the full, multi-sensorial effect:

Longfengxia High Mountain Oolong tea, Lot # 143

Click on any of the pictures below to activate a full-screen slide show presentation.

: It’s already passed one o’clock. A bit late to leave for the mountains which should appear in the background. They are completely veiled by the lower level soup we soak in.

: First stop up to Shanlinxi is Lugu. Better known for its world famous Dong Ding tea, Lugu also has its charm when its cherry tree lined streets are in full bloom. Next stop is over the mountains you see in the left background.

: Got to do like everybody else. Take out your camera and shoot upwards …

: As we start our climb and we look back towards Lugu, we can notice some of the higher, cliff-hanging tea gardens of the area.

: As we get nearer to our destination and the traffic gets surprisingly scarcer, we veer onto a small “road” to our right into the first valley of the Shanlinxi terroir, also known as Longfengxia.

: Most tea gardens are set-up to greet visitors and offer pathways to explore, and restaurants with majestic views.

: The crest of a wave of tea gardens in Shanlinxi, Taiwan

: Lost in the smog down the valley is the village where we started our ride and the Strait of Taiwan in the background

: Looking towards Alishan in the south runs the central ridge with Yushan, Taiwan’s highest peak at nearly 4000 m, somewhere in the distance.

: It’s time to return to the main road and finish our climb to Shanlinxi’s main gate. As we make out way we can distinguish more tea gardens on the other side of the valley towards the central ridge. In the foreground, looking like feathers brushing the air, are bamboo forests.

: If you follow the line of the cable you will notice that it reaches the small cabin on the other side of the gorge. This system is used to bring picked tea (and workers) to the factory which is on this side of the mountain.

: One of the striking characteristics of the Shanlinxi tea terroir is the abruptness of the incline on which tea gardens are clinging to, like this one in Shanlinxi.

: This is possibly one of the most photographed tea garden in Shanlinxi due to its breathtaking slope. Some sections of the garden are said to be at an incline of 70 degrees necessitating mountaineering equipment for the pickers to do their work.

: The Shanlinxi tunnel signals that our trek up the hills is nearing the end.

: The Shanlinxi Gate annonces the entrance to the park and protected forest area that we will explore another time. Shadows are getting longer, it’s time to head back down.